Natural & Naturally Derived Surfactants

What Are Surfactants in Skincare?

Surfactants (surface-active agents) are ingredients that help oil and water mix, allowing dirt and impurities to be lifted and rinsed away.They form the cleansing base of shampoos, face washes, body washes, and hand cleansers, giving each product its characteristic lather and cleaning action.

Natural vs. Naturally Derived Surfactants

• Natural Surfactants -

These come directly from plants or herbs rich in natural saponins, such as Soapnut (Reetha), Shikakai, Yucca, and Quillaja Saponaria (Soap Bark).

• Naturally Derived Surfactants

These are produced by processing renewable natural ingredients—like coconut oil, sugar, or amino acids—to create mild, biodegradable cleansers suitable for modern formulations.

Why Choose Natural Surfactants?

• Mild and Skin-Friendly: Ideal for baby and sensitive skin.

• Eco-Conscious: Derived from renewable, biodegradable sources.

• Sulfate-Free: Gentle alternatives to SLS/SLES.

• Versatile: Suitable for face washes, shampoos, and body cleansers.

List of Natural & Naturally Derived Surfactants

• Decyl Glucoside – From corn glucose & coconut oil; very mild and ideal for baby care.

• Coco Glucoside – From coconut oil & fruit sugars; mild, conditioning, and foaming.

• Lauryl Glucoside – From coconut or palm kernel oil; slightly stronger cleanser.

• Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside – From coconut oil & sugar; mild, good foaming and solubilizing.

• Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate / Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate – Amino acid–based, ultra-mild and moisturizing; perfect for facial and baby cleansers.

• Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) – Known as “baby foam”; creamy, gentle surfactant ideal for shampoo bars and face washes.

• Sodium Lauryl Methyl Isethionate (SLMI) – Mild, coconut-derived cleanser used in Sulfate-free shampoos.

• Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate – Amino acid–based, biodegradable, provides gentle foam.

• Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate – Coconut-derived, creamy lather for face and body cleansers.

• Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate – Amino acid–based; mild with moisturizing benefits.

• Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) – Amphoteric surfactant from coconut; foam booster and secondary cleanser.

• Potassium Cocoate / Sodium Olivate – Natural soaps made by saponifying coconut or olive oil.

• Soapnut (Reetha) Extract / Saponins – 100% natural foaming agent from soapberry fruit.

• Shikakai Extract – Ayurvedic herb rich in cleansing saponins.

• Yucca Extract – Gentle, plant-based foaming agent.

• Quillaja Saponaria (Soap Bark Extract) – Natural saponins, mild and effective cleanser.

Surfactant Comparison Chart with ASM (Active Surfactant Matter)

Surfactant	ASM Value	Source	Mildness	Best For	Typical Usage %
Decyl Glucoside	50%	Corn glucose + coconut oil	Very mild	Baby care, sensitive cleansers	2–10%
Coco Glucoside	50%	Coconut oil + sugar	Mild	Shampoo, body wash	2–10%
Lauryl Glucoside	50%	Coconut/palm kernel oil + glucose	Moderate	Shampoos	2–8%
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside	60%	Coconut oil + sugar	Mild	Micellar water, facial cleansers	1–5%
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate	25–30%	Coconut oil + sugar	Mild	Face wash, baby wash	2–10%
Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate	30%	Coconut oil + sugar	Very mild	Baby shampoo, face cleansers	2–8%
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)	80–85%	Coconut oil	Very mild	Shampoo bars, face wash	3–20%
Sodium Lauryl Methyl Isethionate (SLMI)	65%	Coconut oil	Mild	Sulfate-free shampoos	3–15%
Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate	30%	Coconut oil + amino acid	Mild–Moderate	Shampoos, cleansers	2–15%
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate	30%	Coconut oil	Mild	Creamy body wash	2–10%
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate	30%	Coconut oil + glycine	Mild	Moisturizing cleansers	2–10%
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)	30%	Coconut oil derivative	Mild	Foam booster	2–15%
Potassium Cocoate	20–30%	Saponified coconut oil	Moderate	Liquid soaps	3–20%
Sodium Olivate	20–30%	Saponified olive oil	Moderate	Traditional soaps	3–20%
Soapnut Extract	10–20% saponins	Soapberry fruit	Mild	Herbal shampoos	5–20%
Shikakai Extract	5–10% saponins	Ayurvedic herb	Mild	Herbal shampoos	5–15%
Yucca Extract	~10%	Yucca root	Very mild	Gentle body wash	2–10%
Quillaja Saponaria Extract	10–20% saponins	Soap bark tree	Mild	Foaming cleansers	2–10%

How to Choose the Right Surfactant for Your Formulation

Goal	Recommended Surfactant	Formulation Tip
Sensitive or baby skin	Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate	Keep ASM below 8% for extra mildness.
Sulfate-free shampoo	SCI, SLMI, CAPB	Blend anionic + amphoteric surfactants for creamy foam.
Herbal or Ayurvedic cleansers	Soapnut, Shikakai, Yucca	Combine natural extracts for enhanced foam and cleansing.
Luxurious facial cleansers	Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Glutamates	Add humectants like glycerine or panthenol for hydration.

Formulation Tips for DIY Makers & Professionals

• Maintain pH 5–6 for skin-friendly formulations.

• Use blends of surfactants to balance cleansing, foam, and mildness.

• Add moisturizers such as glycerine, aloe vera, or betaine to reduce dryness.

• Adjust ASM based on product type:

  • 8–15% for facial cleansers

  • 10–20% for shampoos or body washes

• Test viscosity, foam, and stability before scaling production.

FAQs on Natural & Naturally Derived Surfactants

Q 1. What is the mildest natural surfactant?

A. Decyl Glucoside and Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate are among the mildest, perfect for sensitive skin and baby products.

Q 2. Can I make a 100% natural shampoo?

A. Yes. Use saponin-rich extracts like Soapnut or Shikakai, or blend them with glucosides for better foam and stability.

Q3. What does ASM mean in formulations?

A. Active Surfactant Matter (ASM) measures how much cleaning ingredient is present. It helps determine product strength and gentleness.

Q4. Are these surfactants SLS-free?

A. Yes. All listed surfactants are SLS/SLES-free, biodegradable, and suitable for Sulfate-free formulations.

Q5. Do natural surfactants foam well?

A. They create a soft, creamy lather. Combining glucosides with CAPB improves foam volume and stability.

Q6. Are these suitable for haircare?

A. Absolutely. Surfactants like SCI, SLMI, and CAPB are widely used in Sulfate-free shampoos and cleansing conditioners.

Q7. Are natural surfactants eco-friendly?

A. Yes. Most are biodegradable and made from renewable resources, supporting sustainable formulation practices.

Disclaimer

This guide is intended for educational and formulation reference purposes. All data are approximate and may vary by manufacturer or grade. Always perform patch, pH, and stability tests before commercialization. Formulators are responsible for ensuring product safety, compliance, and regulatory approvals for their intended use.

Final Thoughts

Switching to natural and naturally derived surfactants is a step toward clean, conscious, and eco-friendly skincare.These gentle yet effective ingredients allow you to craft sustainable, Sulfate-free formulations that care for both skin and planet — helping you build a responsible, modern skincare line your customers will love.