Commonly Used Gelling Agents for Face & Body Gels

A Practical & pH-Aware Guide for Skincare Formulators

Gels are among the most popular skincare formats today—lightweight, fast-absorbing, non-greasy, and refreshing. From aloe vera gels and hydrating face gels to soothing after-sun and body gels, the gelling agent you choose plays a critical role in texture, clarity, stability, skin feel, and overall product performance.

This comprehensive guide explains the most commonly used cosmetic gelling agents, their pH compatibility, skin suitability, and how to choose the right one for face and body gel formulations.

What Is a Gelling Agent?

A gelling agent is an ingredient that thickens water-based formulations by forming a three-dimensional network, converting liquid into a smooth, spreadable gel. It also helps suspend actives, improves stability, and enhances sensory feel.

Common applications:

• Face & body gels

• Aloe vera gels

• Hydrating serums

• After-sun & soothing gels

• Under-eye gels

• Hair & scalp gels

Key Factors to Consider When Choosing a Gelling Agent

Before selecting a gelling agent, always evaluate:

• Desired gel texture (clear, creamy, elastic, opaque)

• Target skin type (oily, acne-prone, sensitive, dry)

• Final pH of the formulation

• Compatibility with actives (niacinamide, vitamin C, acids, extracts)

• Natural vs synthetic preference

• Ease of formulation (cold process vs neutralization required)

Commonly Used Gelling Agents in Skincare

1.    Carbopol (Carbomer)

Classic synthetic gelling agent for crystal-clear gels

Key features

• Produces clear, glossy gels

• Lightweight, non-sticky feel

• Requires neutralization (TEA / NaOH)

Ideal for

• Face gels

• Aloe gels

• Acne & oil-control gels

• Under-eye gels

Compatible pH: 5.5 – 7Best for skin type: Oily, acne-prone, combination

2.   Sepigel 305

Ready-to-use polymer for creamy gel textures

Key features

• Creates gel-cream consistency

• No neutralization required

• Cold-process friendly

• Excellent sensory profile

Ideal for

• Gel-creams

• Face & body gels

• Lightweight moisturizers

Compatible pH: 3 – 8Best for skin type: All skin types, especially sensitive

3.   Aristoflex (AVC / AVC Plus)

Modern polymer for silky, premium gels

Key features

• Produces silky, elastic, luxurious gels

• No neutralization required

• Non-sticky, cushiony skin feel

• Effective at low usage levels

Ideal for

• Face gels & serums

• Gel-based moisturizers

• Sensitive & premium skincare

Compatible pH: 4 – 9Important note: Not compatible with high electrolytes, salts, clays, or charcoal

4.   Xanthan Gum

Natural, plant-derived thickener popular in herbal formulations

Key features

• Eco-friendly and biodegradable

• Forms soft, slightly elastic gels

• Can feel sticky at higher usage

Ideal for

• Herbal gels

• DIY skincare

• Body gels

Compatible pH: 4 – 9Best for skin type: Dry, sensitive, herbal skincare users

5.   Guar Gum / Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Natural thickener with conditioning benefits

Key features

• Adds slip & softness

• Mild gelling and thickening

• Often blended with other gums

Ideal for

• Body gels

• Hair gels & conditioners

• Herbal skincare

Compatible pH: 4 – 8Best for skin type: Dry to normal

6.   Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC)

Cellulose-based, non-ionic gelling agent

Key features

• Clear to slightly hazy gels

• Excellent compatibility with actives

• Smooth, non-tacky texture

Ideal for

• Face & body gels

• Serums

• Sensitive-skin formulations

Compatible pH: 3 – 10Best for skin type: All skin types

7.   Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

High-performance polymer for professional formulations

Key features

• Strong thickening at low usage

• Stable across wide pH range

• Premium sensory feel

Ideal for

• Professional face gels

• Gel-based serums

• Advanced cosmetic formulations

Compatible pH: 4 – 9Neutralization: Required

Quick Comparison Table

Gelling Agent	Natural / Synthetic	Gel Texture	Neutralization Needed	Best Use
Carbopol	Synthetic	Clear	Yes	Acne & aloe gels
Sepigel 305	Synthetic	Cream-gel	No	Gel-creams, body gels
Aristoflex	Synthetic	Silky, elastic	No	Face gels, serums
Xanthan Gum	Natural	Opaque	No	Herbal gels
Guar Gum	Natural	Soft gel	No	Body & hair gels
HEC	Semi-natural	Clear	No	Sensitive-skin gels
Acrylates Polymer	Synthetic	Clear	Yes	Premium products

Gelling Agent + pH Compatibility Chart

Gelling Agent	pH Range	Key Notes
Carbopol	5.5 – 7	Avoid low pH
Sepigel 305	3 – 8	Beginner-friendly
Aristoflex	4 – 9	Avoid salts & clays
Xanthan Gum	4 – 9	Slightly opaque
Guar Gum	4 – 8	Often blended
HEC	3 – 10	Highly stable
Acrylates Polymer	4 – 9	Professional use

How to Choose the Right Gelling Agent

• For crystal-clear gels: Carbopol, HEC

• For luxury sensory gels: Aristoflex

• For creamy gel textures: Sepigel 305

• For herbal & natural gels: Xanthan Gum, Guar Gum

• For sensitive skin: Aristoflex, HEC

• For professional products: Carbopol, Acrylates polymers

Important Formulation Tips & Precautions

• Always hydrate gums properly to avoid clumping

• Maintain correct pH for long-term stability

• Do not overload gums—can cause stringy or sticky texture

• Avoid Aristoflex with high salt, charcoal, or clay systems

• Always use preservatives in water-based gels

• Allow full hydration (12–24 hours) before final viscosity check

Final Thoughts

The success of a gel formulation depends heavily on the right gelling agent. Texture, clarity, stability, skin feel, and customer experience are all influenced by this single choice.

Understanding pH compatibility, active interaction, and formulation behaviour allows you to create safe, stable, and professional-quality face and body gels—from beginner DIY projects to commercial skincare products.

Disclaimer

This article is for educational and formulation guidance purposes only. Always perform pH testing, stability testing, microbial testing, and patch testing before commercial production or sale.