Cosmetic Butters
- Ibha Cares
- Sep 30
- 4 min read
At IBHACARES, we help formulators, DIY creators, and skincare professionals with high-quality raw materials. Among these, plant-based cosmetic butters are some of the most versatile ingredients used in both skincare and haircare formulations. They provide emollience, nourishment, and unique textures to formulations. Each butter has its own fatty acid profile, melting point, and benefits, making it important for formulators to choose the right butter for their product design.
What Are Cosmetic Butters?
Cosmetic butters are solid fats derived from nuts, seeds, or fruit kernels. Unlike carrier oils, butters remain solid at room temperature due to their high content of saturated fatty acids.
They are extracted through cold pressing or solvent methods, and then sometimes refined for texture, stability, or to reduce odour. Unrefined butters retain their natural aroma and nutrients, while refined butters are lighter in colour, scent, and texture — often preferred in professional formulations.
Why Formulators Love Using Butters
Emollient action – soften and smooth skin
Occlusive properties – prevent trans epidermal water loss
Thickening agent – improve viscosity in emulsions
Stability enhancer – work well with waxes and oils
Skin repair – rich in vitamins A, E, and antioxidants
Hair care benefits – improve shine, elasticity, and manageability.
Popular Cosmetic Butters
Almond Butter - Rich in vitamins A & E, provides deep moisturization and improves skin elasticity.
Avocado Butter - Contains fatty acids and antioxidants, great for dry and mature skin.
Cocoa Butter - High in stearic acid, creates a protective barrier and improves firmness.
Kokum Butter - Non-greasy, helps with skin regeneration and is suitable for sensitive skin.
Macadamia Nut Butter - Lightweight and easily absorbed, suitable for hair and skin softening.
Mango Butter - Soft butter rich in oleic and stearic acid, non-greasy and soothing.
Mowra Butter - Less common butter, helps with skin elasticity and conditioning.
Murumuru Butter - Rich in lauric acid, nourishes curly hair and adds shine.
Sal Butter - Creamy, stable butter, good for lotions and creams.
Shea Butter - One of the most popular butters, anti-inflammatory and highly nourishing.
Tucuma Butter - Excellent emollient, rich in beta-carotene, good for hair and skin conditioning.
Fatty Acid Profiles & Their Functions
Different butters owe their skin feel and properties to fatty acid composition:
Stearic Acid → Firm texture, adds thickness, stabilizing effect
Oleic Acid → Deep nourishment, great for dry skin
Lauric Acid → Antimicrobial, lightweight, good for hair
Linoleic Acid → Balances sebum, supports acne-prone skin
Palmitic Acid → Conditioning, protective barrier.
This is why Cocoa Butter feels firm and protective (high in stearic), while Mango Butter feels lighter (balanced fatty acids).
Types of Cosmetic Butters & Their Benefits
A variety of cosmetic butters are used in skincare and haircare formulations. Each butter has its own unique profile, making it suitable for different applications. Below is a detailed comparison of the most popular butters.
Butter | Melting Point (°C) | Texture | Comedogenic Rating | Key Benefits | Typical Usage % | Best For / Formulation Uses |
Almond | 30–35 | Soft | 2 | Gentle, soothing | 3–15% | Lotions, balms, baby care |
Avocado | 30–35 | Creamy | 3 | Nourishing, rich, restorative | 3–10% | Hair masks, night creams, mature skin |
Cocoa | 34–38 | Firm, brittle | 4 | Protective, antioxidant, firming | 3–20% | Soaps, stretch mark creams |
Kokum | 35–40 | Hard, non-greasy | 0–1 | Stable, non-greasy, repairs barrier | 2–10% | Lip balms, face creams, sensitive skin |
Macadamia | 28–32 | Silky, soft | 2 | Anti-aging, smooth, lightweight | 3–12% | Massage butters, hair serums |
Mango | 28–34 | Light, non-greasy | 2 | Antioxidant, soothing, versatile | 2–15% | Whipped butters, face creams |
Mowra | 33–38 | Soft to firm | 2 | Protective, moisturizing | 3–12% | Soaps, balms, conditioning creams |
Murumuru | 30–35 | Glossy, firm | 2–3 | Hair nourishing, adds shine | 2–15% | Curl creams, conditioners |
Sal | 34–38 | Firm, creamy | 2 | Conditioning, soothing | 2–12% | Creams, body butters |
Shea | 30–38 | Soft to firm | 0–2 | Healing, versatile, anti-inflammatory | 3–20% | Lotions, soaps, masks |
Tucuma | 32–36 | Soft to firm | 2 | Anti-aging, emollient, conditioning | 3–12% | Hair care, anti-aging creams |
Formulator Tips
Balance textures: Blend hard butters (Cocoa, Sal, Kokum) with soft butters (Shea, Mango).
Prevent greasiness: Combine with dry-feel esters or lightweight oils.
Whipped body butters: Add Arrowroot Powder or Tapioca Starch for a silky finish.
Soap making: Cocoa and Shea give hardness, Murumuru and Mango add creaminess.
Hair products: Murumuru and Tucuma enhance shine and definition in curls.
Storage, Shelf Life & Precautions for Butters
Store butters in airtight containers, away from heat, moisture, and direct sunlight.
Average shelf life: 12–24 months, depending on the type of butter.
Adding Vitamin E (Tocopherol) at 0.2–0.5% can help delay rancidity and extend shelf life.
Always use clean, dry utensils to avoid contamination (avoid double-dipping or contact with water).
Check regularly for signs of rancidity (odour or texture changes) and avoid using rancid butters as they may irritate the skin.
A patch test is recommended for sensitive skin before regular use.
Precautions & Safety
Always do a patch test.
Nut-based butters (Almond, Macadamia) may cause allergies.
Butters with higher comedogenic ratings (Cocoa, Avocado) should be avoided in acne-prone formulations.
Pregnant or breastfeeding women should consult before heavy butter application.
Store away from children.
Sustainability & Ethical Sourcing
Many butters (Shea, Cocoa, Mango) come from small farming communities. Choosing fair-trade and sustainable sourcing supports local economies and ensures environmentally responsible practices.
FAQs
Q. Which butter is best for face creams?
A. Kokum, Mango, or Shea (refined) are best for lightweight, non-greasy feel.
Q. Which butter is best for cracked heels or dry patches?
A. Cocoa, Sal, and Shea butters provide rich protection.
Q. How do I stop butters from graininess?
A. Graininess happens when butters crystallize. Use a controlled melt and cool method.
Q. Can butters replace oils in formulations?
A. Partially, yes. Butters provide solidity and emollience, but should be combined with oils for flexibility.
Q. Are refined butters less effective?
A. Refined butters lose some aroma and nutrients, but are smoother and easier to use in professional formulations.
Disclaimer
This article is meant for educational purposes for formulators. We have compiled the best available knowledge, but further study and research are encouraged. Always test your formulations and check ingredient suitability for your target audience.
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