Comedogenic Values of Oils & Butters

At IBHACARES, we connect with our community of formulators and skincare enthusiasts to help them create safe, effective, and natural products. One common challenge in skincare formulation is choosing the right oils and butters, especially for acne-prone or sensitive skin. Understanding comedogenic values is key to avoiding breakouts while maximizing skin benefits.

What Are Comedogenic Values?

The comedogenic rating measures how likely an oil, butter, or cosmetic ingredient is to clog pores and contribute to acne or breakouts.

Scale (0–5): -

• 0 = Non comedogenic (won’t clog pores; safe for acne-prone skin)

• 1–2 = Low risk

• 3 = Moderate risk

• 4–5 = High risk (likely to clog pores; avoid on oily/acne-prone skin)

Why Are Comedogenic Ratings Important in Formulation?

Targeted product design for specific skin types –

• Avoid triggering breakouts

• Optimize skin benefits while balancing formulation

• Ensure safe usage of oils in face, body, and hair products

Factors That Influence Comedogenic Values

1. Fatty Acid Profile

Oils are composed of fatty acids, which determine whether an oil feels heavy or light.

• Linoleic Acid (Omega-6): Lightweight, fast-absorbing, lowers clogging risk (e.g., Grapeseed, Hemp Seed, Rosehip)

• Oleic Acid (Omega-9): Heavier, rich, may clog pores in oily skin (e.g., Olive, Avocado, Cocoa Butter)

• Lauric Acid: Thick, antibacterial, may be comedogenic (e.g., Coconut Oil)

Ricinoleic Acid: Found in Castor Oil, penetrates deeply, usually safe but thick in texture

2. Texture & Absorption Speed

• Light oils absorb quickly → lower clogging risk

• Heavy oils & butters sit on the skin → higher risk

3. Skin Type

• Oily/acne-prone skin: Needs light, fast-absorbing oils

• Dry/mature skin: Benefits from heavier, nourishing oils

• Sensitive skin: Needs soothing, non-irritating oils

4. Processing Method

• Unrefined oils: Contain natural waxes, pigments → can increase comedogenicity

• Refined/fractionated oils: Lighter, cleaner, less pore-clogging

5. Concentration in Formulation

• Using a high-rated oil at low percentages may be safe

• High percentages of heavy oils or butters → increased clogging risk

Comedogenic Rating Table of Popular Oils & Butters

Oil/Butter	Comedogenic Rating	Key Properties	Best For
Argan Oil	0	Lightweight, anti-aging	All skin types
Hemp Seed Oil	0	Anti-inflammatory, regulates sebum	Acne-prone, sensitive skin
Rosehip Oil	1	Regenerating, Vitamins A & C	Scars, pigmentation, mature skin
Grapeseed Oil	1	Light, high linoleic acid	Oily & acne-prone skin
Jojoba Oil	2	Mimics sebum, balances skin	All skin types
Sweet Almond Oil	2	Rich in Vitamin E	Dry & normal skin
Olive Oil	2–3	Antioxidant-rich	Dry & mature skin
Avocado Oil	3	Nourishing, high oleic acid	Very dry, aging skin
Coconut Oil (Virgin)	4	Antibacterial, heavy	Hair, body care
Fractionated Coconut Oil	2	Lighter, less clogging	All skin types
Shea Butter	0–2	Soothing, anti-inflammatory	Dry, sensitive, eczema-prone
Cocoa Butter	4	Firm, protective	Very dry skin
Mango Butter	2	Lightweight, antioxidants	All skin types
Castor Oil	1	Thick, cleansing	Hair, cleansing balms
Tamanu Oil	2	Healing, good for scars	Problem skin
Macadamia Oil	2	Rich, slow-absorbing	Mature skin
Kokum Butter	1–2	Non-greasy, nourishing	Dry, sensitive skin
Sunflower Oil (High Linoleic)	0–1	Lightweight, non-comedogenic	Acne-prone, sensitive skin
Safflower Oil (High Linoleic)	0	Fast-absorbing, nourishing	Acne-prone skin

Non-Comedogenic Oils & Butters (Rating 0–1)

• Rating 0: Argan, Hemp Seed, Sunflower (High Linoleic), Safflower (High Linoleic), Rosehip, Watermelon Seed, Cranberry Seed, Baobab, Camellia, Black Cumin Seed

• Rating 1: Jojoba, Grapeseed, Castor, Sea Buckthorn, Kukui Nut, Neem, Mango Butter, Abyssinian Oil, Hazelnut Oil

Practical Tips for Formulators

• Always patch test oils for acne-prone skin

• Blend low and moderate-rated oils to balance benefits

• Keep high comedogenic oils at low percentages in face products

• Heavy oils are fine for body care but avoid on oily/acne-prone skin

• Consider absorption speed, skin type, and formulation percentage

• Remember comedogenic ratings are guidelines, not absolutes

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FAQs About Comedogenic Ratings

Q1: Can comedogenic oils still be used in skincare?

A: Yes, for body care, lip balms, or hair care.

Q2: Does refining an oil change its comedogenic rating?

A: Yes, refined oils are lighter and often less comedogenic.

Q3: Which carrier oils are best for acne-prone skin?

A: Hemp Seed, Grapeseed, Jojoba, Rosehip.

Q4: Can I mix oils with different comedogenic ratings?

A: Yes, blending helps balance absorption and benefits.

Q5: Do comedogenic ratings apply equally to everyone?

A: No, skin type, sensitivity, and formulation context matter.

Q6: Are butters always more comedogenic than oils?

A: Not always. Shea Butter (0–2) is far less clogging than Cocoa Butter (4).

Q7: How does percentage used affect comedogenicity?

A: High-rated oils in small amounts are usually safe; large amounts can clog pores.

Key Takeaways

• Acne-prone or oily skin: Use high-linoleic oils like Hemp Seed, Grapeseed, Rosehip, Jojoba

• Dry/mature skin: Heavy oils like Avocado, Olive, Argan, Shea Butter

• Sensitive skin: Sunflower (high linoleic), Shea, Kokum

• Avoid Virgin Coconut Oil & Cocoa Butter for oily/acne-prone skin

• Always consider oil type, fatty acid composition, absorption speed, processing method, and formulation percentage

Disclaimer

This information is for educational purposes only. Comedogenic ratings and recommendations may vary by skin type and formulation. Always patch test products and consult a dermatologist if needed. IBHACARES is not responsible for any adverse reactions.